Leconfield House & Esca Bimbadgen in the Hunter Valley of New South Wales

/ Garrulous Gwendoline

Leaving behind our two night stopover in Gorokan on the New South Wales Central Coast, we drove an hour north into the region known as the Hunter Valley. Containing the Hunter River and its tributaries, the Hunter Valley is one of the largest river valleys on the NSW coast, and the lower area where we visited is most commonly known for its wineries and coal industry, which at first glance, would seem an odd juxtaposition but somehow it works. For the sake of keeping it “nice”, I’ll skirt any further discussion of coal in this post.

For now, we are heading to Branxton, a small town of around 2,000 people, where Bill’s brother and his wife own the post office business (the “government” indirectly owns the building). We try to come up in March each year to celebrate his birthday. COVID lockdown prevented that last year, so we owed him two dinners, and left it to him to choose the venue. He nominated the fine-dining restaurant Esca, which is attached to the Bimbadgen Wine Estate in nearby Pokolbin. More about that later.

According to Wikipedia “The Branxton region is considered one of the birth places of Australian wine” and that sounds about right. Although he wasn’t the absolute first, one of the earliest to grow grapes here was George Wyndham using land granted to him in 1827 by the Governor of the day. (These land grants were prolific in early colonial times). Many readers would be familiar with wines from the Wyndham Estate, which descends from these early roots.

Dalwood House, George Wyndham’s original modest home, is being restored for tourism purposes, but as the family grew other homes appeared, and the one of special interest to me is called Leconfield House, built in 1872 on Dalwood Road, at Leconfield, just outside of Branxton. It was built for Reginald Wyndham, one of George’s sons.

The fifth owners of Leconfield House were Cyril Staples and his wife Milcie who owned it between 1980 and 1993. This is the same man I have mentioned in previous blogs as having been a Prisoner of War of the Germans in WWII, and Bill and I were once privileged to have lunch and a tour with them at this house which was then their private residence. Since that time it has been sold three times, restored, and now runs as stately accommodation. Many years ago Bill and I took a small group and booked the entire house out for our sole use. Sitting on the top verandah, sipping wine and chatting with friends while looking out over paddocks and vineyards is a pleasant way to spend an hour or two. At the rear of the house is an enclosed courtyard with barbecue facilities so you can cook your own if you like. Or simply enjoy the home-cooked food on offer on the menu. I haven’t been since then, but judging by the overview shot on their website (see photo below), it is being presented in superb condition. If I’ve inspired you, you might like to explore their website further: http://www.leconfieldhouse.com.au/

So, back to our dinner. If you take a look at the Bimbadgen Winery website you will learn that the majority of their vintage is sold to prestigious hotel groups, with the balance being sold at the cellar door, or through a members’ only wine club, or in the Esca Bimbadgen restaurant. So you are never likely to see this wine in a liquor store or in British or European supermarkets. Sorrreeeee.

We arrived around 6pm while it was still light, and were offered the chance to eat on the terrace with a front-row view of some of the vineyards. We declined and sat inside at a near-window table which offered a similar spectacular view of the rolling countryside and vines. We kept ourselves amused watching skimpily clad beautiful young things choose the outdoor option on what looked like their first date with equally sartorially dressed young men who donned their jumpers (sweaters) as the evening wore on (the girls did not). Remembering it is now early autumn in our southern part of the world. But it was also very atmospheric to observe the dusk. Also remembering that our part of the world must have invented the term, “night falls”. There is no such thing as a long twilight when you are on latitude 32°46’21″S. Nevertheless, I recommend you all to this magical experience in the expansive Esca Bimbadgen restaurant with its floor to ceiling glass on two sides.

The menu is any three courses for A$75 (USD55/GBP43/Euro50), which is reasonable for a restaurant of this food quality and ambience if you are there for a special occasion. You can have three desserts if that suits you. You can order wines by the glass so you can sample a variety. Or you can have a five course degustation menu with sommelier matched wines for A$150.

In the spirit of fellow blogger Derrick J. Knight, I can advise that I chose: New Season Figs with Smoked Mozzarella, pistachio and watercress. The soft cheese had just the right amount of salty tang to enhance the delicate flavour of the figs. Then I moved on to Charred Octopus with smoked eggplant, chorizo and harissa, and finally, forgoing a dessert, finished with Crispy Fried Quail with estate honey, green onions and chipotle. So, as you see, Bimbadgen is not your average family-style restaurant. No burgers or pizzas on this menu. As for wines, my eye fell on Bimbadgen’s attempt at a couple of Italian-style grapes: a Fiano, and a Vermentino. Both white, both pleasant, the second more gutsy than the first. Generally speaking, Australians prefer a more full-bodied white than would be typically drunk on say, a summer’s day in Germany, although Pinot Gris/Grigio is gaining popularity earlier in the day (Breakfast? Hah! Just joking). The others at the table stayed with varieties more commonly known in Australia. Bill tried a Shiraz Viognier, before settling on a straight Shiraz, which I also sampled and found delicious. They have two varieties, each named after the road on which the relevant vineyard faces: McDonalds Road, and Palmers Lane. I’m pretty sure it was the second I tried, but by then, what with the view, the food, the amusement, the conversation, the wine – the evening was becoming very mellow.

Bill, as designated driver, managed to drive us the short way home down dark country roads surrounded by paddocks of vines that had been stripped of their grapes some months earlier, and before too long, we were all safely tucked up in bed at his brother’s house, notching up the zzzzzz’s and refreshing ourselves for the next adventure on the day ahead.

23 thoughts on “Leconfield House & Esca Bimbadgen in the Hunter Valley of New South Wales”

  1. Pingback: Chateau Elan at The Vintage, Hunter Valley | The Reluctant Retiree

  2. Well thanks Gwen. I’ve given up wine and whisky (January 27) and today will be more difficult than most and all ‘cos of your story. Not really, I’m coping quite well. And those old homesteads are a delight whenever you get to isit them.

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  5. Oh lucky you sounds like a delicious meal and still being able to drink wine too. Coming from an almost teetotal family I’ve never been a big drinker despite my ex-husband turning out to be an alcoholic. In one of those weird quirks of fate it was me and not my ex that had an unexplained bout of pancreatitis seven years ago and can no longer drink any alcohol. It isn’t a huge loss, but I do miss a glass of fine wine every now and then. Your descriptions made my mouth water and I would definitely enjoy the fresh fig starter.

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      • Whatever caused my attack neither the docs in Norwich nor my consultant here in Ipswich have any idea. It is fingers crossed there isn’t a recurrence and, of course, no alcohol. Apparently I have a small anatomical variation from normal, bifurcation of the pancreatic duct, which 10% of population have and like many I was asymptomatic for 50 years plus. It’s a mystery and has left me with a scarred pancreas and so now can’t eat normal diet either. Annoying, but lots of people have worse health to endure. C’est la vie.

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        • I’m pressing the like button as there isn’t an alternative on WordPress. But I feel for you. Digestive problems are debilitating and depressing. There is a lot around at the moment about the connection between gut health and mental health, and yours sounds a variation on that.

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  7. What a splendid outing. It all sounds gorgeous and I would have chosen the same starter, one of my favourites. It must be over 20 years since we visited the Hunter Valley. It was long before I started blogging and pre-dating that both my sons made lovely scrapbooks which are stored away somewhere in the attic so when I’ve time, I’ll go in search of them and let you know where we stayed.

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  8. Octopus 🐙 very unusual and adventurous, I do like squid does it taste like that? Do they cut the suckers off or can you eat them? What a lovely visit, I don’t like wine, people keep testing me on different sorts to no avail, I will drink a Prosecco to be polite (some people are very pushy with people who don’t drink), in many pubs and restaurants your only soft drink choice is diet coke- or full sugar lemonade – not very sophisticated! Or sparkling water yuk!

    It comes in handy though because I never mind being the designated driver. We’ve had some lovely spring weather, can’t believe how warm its been for March but it turned yesterday ☔️.

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    • For some reason I had in mind it would be the baby octopus, which is the entire body and tentacles and are delicious barbecued or char-grilled. Actually it was the suckers off the octopus which is a little smaller than squid, but similar in texture. It’s tasty, but definitely needs a sauce or marinade to bring it to life.
      Finding something appealing and non-alcoholic in pubs is a pain isn’t it? I usually settle on lemon, lime and bitters; or lime and soda. But the sugar can be a problem if they don’t have diet versions available.

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